Make sure you have the appropriate sized Kong for your beloved pet BEFORE stuffing it! I would also recommend that you wash the Kong out well with a mild dish washing detergent like Dawn to clear off the slight film that covers the rubber Kong and then soak it in chicken broth overnight to help with eliminating any rubber scent that may be aversive to the dog/puppy.

In the beginning, you may also have to teach your dog what the game is all about by making it very easy for the treats to fall out of the toy at first. They will need immediate gratification for interacting with the food toy. Help them by pointing to the toy and encouraging them to push it or by putting a dab of peanut butter on the out side of the toy so they are drawn to it right away. I always put dry kibble that falls out easily into the Kong so the puppy does not get frustrated with this new concept. Some dogs will have no idea what you are trying to accomplish with this new diversion. As the dogs get more interested and more proficient at retrieving the treats, then you can increase the difficulty of the stuffing.

The idea behind a food toy is to stimulate the dog (or sometimes your cat!) for a variety of reasons:

• Dogs need to chew.
• Some dogs are just not motivated to eat their meal in a bowl.
• Some dogs may have separation anxiety and the stuffed toys help keep them distracted.
• Some dogs may eat too quickly or more quickly than other pets in the household.
• Some dogs like the idea of the “hunt”.

What ever the reason for your dog, the result is almost always the same: they love it!

What do I stuff with and how do I stuff?

The quick fix is to smear a little peanut butter or a very small amount of cream cheese into the Kong or bone and put a few kibble in afterwards to fill it up.

That is pretty straight forward, but I encourage you to get creative with your stuffing.

Ideas:

• regular kibble to start with to make it very rewarding with very little effort on the part of the dog.
• regular kibble mixed with wet food or peanut butter or cottage cheese or plain yogurt.
• fresh fruits and vegetables like apples, peaches, plums, bananas, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, tomatoes, olives, cucumbers, (avoid citrus, fruit seeds and perhaps “gassy foods”).
• freeze dried liver or Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance chubs.
• and the grand finale: freeze canned food into the Kong with a small biscuit treat stuffed into the small opening as a bonus!

I usually layer the Kong with the liver or chub at top (small hole end) and add other ingredients as I go, but I am careful to make sure I leave air gaps inside Kong so the dog can be successful. You can give your dog their entire meal that way or as a midday snack (especially for young puppies eating a lunch) or a special treat. I always recommend using them for crate training. I also like to hide the Kongs around the house asking my dog to sit / stay in one room while I hide it in another and then saying “Okay, go find breakfast or dinner”. If your dogs are going to be outside, you can also freeze the entire Kong in a plastic bowl that you turn out for them as a big frozen block with the Kong toy frozen in the middle. (This is the same idea we use at Sea World for the polar bears!)

There are several different types of food toys or Kong toys available and you will want to rotate them throughout the week. If you plan a head of time, you’ll be able to create a system that works for you and is sure to entertain your dog. Happy stuffing!

This is just a small definition of the dog vaccinations that you may encounter along the way. Some veterinarians may choose to vaccinate your puppy with a different schedule or with different combinations of vaccines to better suit your puppy. If you have more questions or concerns please contact your veterinarian for greater detailed information.

VACCINES:

DHLPP – Distemper / Hepatitis / Leptospirosis / Parainfluenza / Parvovirus

• 8 weeks / 12 weeks / 16 weeks
• 1 year boosters

Annual titers can check for protective antibody levels / immunity changing administration to as follows:
Distemper 1 – 5yrs & Parvo 1-3 yrs

BORDATELLA / PARAINFLUENZA – Kennel Cough

• Usually intranasal every 6 months for socially active dogs or annually for isolated dogs.

RABIES

• Administered 4 – 6 months of age
• Booster 1 year later
• Boosters every 3 years after that

DEFINITIONS:

DISTEMPER:

• Viral disease.
• Affecting respiratory and nervous systems causing: fever, lethargy, coughing, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures & death.

HEPATITIS:

• Contagious disease of the liver.
• Symptoms include: fever, vomiting, diarrhea & abdominal pain.
• Can also cause severe kidney damage.

LEPTOSPIROSIS:

• Bacterial disease carried by wild animals and in contaminated water.
• Symptoms include: high fever, jaundice, hemorrhaging, and bloodstained feces.
• Can affect humans through infected urine.

PARVOVIRUS:

• Parvovirus (Parvo) is a highly contagious disease that causes diarrhea and vomiting, and often leads to death.
• Transmitted through contaminated feces in soil.

INFECTIOUS TRACHEOBRONCHITIS (Kennel Cough or ITB):

• Acute, highly contagious disease.
• Caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica, canine parainfluenza (CPI), canine adenovirua 1(CAV-!), canine adenovirua 2 (CAV-2), canine distemper virus (CDV), reovirus, and small organisms called mycoplasma. (Bordatella = bacterium & Parainfluenza = airborne virus)
• Symptoms include: severe coughing spells especially after short exercise sometime followed by vomiting and gagging, watery eyes and runny nose.

RABIES:

• Virus from wild animals particularly skunks, raccoons, bats and foxes.
• Attacking the brain and is always fatal.
• Can be passed to humans through bite or scratch from infected animal.
• Symptoms include: unusually aggressive irritated behavior, drooling or frothing mouth, drunken walk.

Some kennels may require a current Corona vaccine too:
CORONAVIRUS:

• Second leading cause of viral diarrhea.
• Transmitted through contaminated feces in soil.
• Symptoms include: diarrhea, vomiting, excessive thirst, weight loss, loss of appetite.

OTHER MEDICATIONS:

HEARTWORM (Dirofilaria immitis):

• caused by bite from infected mosquito.
• Parasitic infection living in bloodstream and/or heart restricting the blood flow to the lungs, kidneys & liver.
• Symptoms include: difficulty breathing, coughing, loss of appetite, lack of energy and heart damage.
• Preventative measures only control larvae development not adult worms so you must test for adults worms too.
• Annual blood tests needed for the monthly preventative medication.
• “Interceptor” prevents heartworm, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms.
• “Sentinel” contains Interceptor and Program (flea birth control).
  Other products to look at : Trifexis, Revolution, Heart Guard – ask your veterinarian what is new these days as products change as research becomes available

FLEA & TICK

• Program is a once a month tablet for flea birth control (6 weeks or older).
• Advantage is a topical can be used weekly if necessary for adult fleas (7 weeks or older).
• Frontline is topical used monthly for adult fleas and all stages of ticks (8 weeks or older).
• Frontline Plus topical kills fleas, ticks and flea birth control.
• K9 Advantix once a month kills adult fleas, repels/kills mosquitoes, kills ticks.
• Neem Oil (Azadirachta Indica) natural remedy for flea & tick control when added to shampoos. Used externally for ringworm, eczema, lice, fungal infections & painful joints and muscles.

TICK CONCERNS:

LYME DISEASE (Borreliosis):

• bacterial disease from infected deer ticks.
• Symptoms include: arthritis, sudden onset of severe pain and lameness, lethargy, depression, loss of appetite.
• Severe forms of Lyme disease can affect heart, brain & kidney.

CANINE EHRLICHIOSIS

• Second most common infectious disease in US caused by common brown dog ticks.
• Symptoms include: loss of appetite, runny nose or eyes, depression.
• Can result in permanent blindness, autoimmune diseases, bleeding complications and even death.
• NOT COMMON WITH HUMANS.

OTHER COMMON PUPPY CONDITIONS:

TAPE WORMS:

• Caused by fleas.
• Caused by infected rodents.
• Can pass to humans through ingestion of fleas or eggs.
• Flat rice (linguine) like debris in stool or around bottom (I know, kind of gross).

ROUND WORMS:

• Parasite eggs in stool, soil, ground fruits veggies.
• Can cause blindness in humans.

HOOK WORMS:

• Parasite eggs in soil from stool.
• Can infect humans.

GIARDIA:

• Parasite in/around water from feces.
• Symptoms include: diarrhea, weight loss, abdominal pain, poor weight gain.
• Can be passed to humans.

OTHER CONDITIONS YOU MIGHT HEAR ABOUT:

DEMODECTIC MANGE (Demodicosis):

• Skin disease caused by microscopic parasitic mite.
• Can be localized small areas of hair loss on head and front legs or generalized covering large areas of the body (generalized symptoms include: red crusty skin, warm to the touch with pustules, bleeds easily & has a strong odor.
• Frequently seen in puppies however adult onset happens after 5 yrs or so and can be indicative of internal disease or cancer.

SARCOPTIC MANGE (Scabies):

• Skin disease caused by parasitic mite.
• Highly contagious.
• Symptoms include: intense itching, reddening of skin, thinning hair, crusts and scabs (bacterial skin infections occur in the inflamed irritated skin.
• Mites burrow directly into the skin where they deposit eggs that hatch in 3 – 10 days. The larvae burrow up to the skin surface to feed and molt into a nymph stage. The nymphs travel about the skin surface to feed. They molt into adults, which then mate and deposit more eggs in the skin. The entire life cycle is complete within 3 weeks. Sarcoptic mites prefer skin w/ little hair, so they are most numerous on the ears, elbows, abdomen, & hocks.
• Can pass to humans.

***Permission to Crosspost***
New Vaccine Protocol Accepted by all 27 Vet Schools

NEW!!! VACCINATION PROTOCOL

by Dr. Jean Dodd

All of the 27 Vet Universities in the US have followed the immunization protocol as suggested by Dr. Dodd for years. All of these Hospitals will be changing their Vaccination Programs apparently. This is welcome news and you should print this out and take it with you to your Vet should you need reinforcement against over-vaccination.

VACCINATION NEWSFLASH [CIMDA support] RE; J DODDS VACCINE PROTOCOL
I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to Vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs. those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions, or the doctors economic well-being should not be a factor in a medical decision.

NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY
Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (i.e.: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced. Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines. Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8 – 14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the
immune system. A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at l year 4 mo) will provide LIFETIME IMMUNITY.

San Diego Dog parks and dog beaches are becoming quite popular these days and I would like everyone to remember that they are privileges and not rights. Please make sure to follow all of the rules for each location and PLEASE pick up after your dog. Yes, it is actually “unlawful to allow your dog to defecate on public property and municipal Code Sec 44.0304.1 requires a person to immediately remove any feces to a proper trash receptacle” (this quote was taken straight from The City Of San Diego’s Park & recreation site). We are sure to lose these privileges if irresponsible owners leave their pet waste behind for others to deal with. Pet waste can spread diseases and no body enjoys the smell or mess it makes on the bottom of their shoes!

Rules and regulations vary with each park and can change seasonally so please read the signs carefully!

Now, with that in mind, here are some of the local San Diego dog parks and beaches around San Diego:

SAN DIEGO DOG BEACHES:

Dog Beach Del Mar – Located at Camino Del Mar. Open September – June. NO SHADE NO FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Ocean Beach Dog Beach – Located at the end of Voltaire at the Ocean Beach Flood Control Channel (open 24 hrs a day and year round) NO SHADE NO FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Fiesta Island – Located in Mission Bay Park off of Sea World Drive (hours are 6am – 10pm open year round) NO SHADE NO FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Dog Beach Coronado – Located at the northern end of the beach by the Naval Air Station on Ocean Blvd near Sunset Park NO SHADE NO FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

SAN DIEGO DOG PARKS:

Rancho Bernardo Park – Located at 18448 West Bernardo Drive as part of the Rancho Bernardo Community Park . This 2.5 acre park offers a yard for small dogs as well as large dogs. VERY LITTLE SHADE BUT PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Torrey Highlands Park – Located on Lansdale Drive off of Del Mar Heights Road . This 1 acre park is a single yard for all dogs. SHADE AND PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Kearny Mesa Dog Park – Located at 3170 Armstrong Street . This 1 acre park is a single yard for all dogs. If there are evening softball games at the adjacent fields, the park is lit up relatively well in the evening. SHADE AND PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE FROM NEARBY BATHROOMS AND PUBLIC SUPPLIED BOWLS AND WATER JUGS.

Poway Dog Park – Located at 13094 Bowron Road within the Poway Community Park. This 1.75 acre park offers a small dog yard as well as a large dog yard and does have lights for evening use until 9:30pm . SOME SHADE AND PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Harry Griffen Park La Mesa – Located at 9550 Milden Street. This community park has a 1 acre off leash dog park in the middle of the park.

Grape Street Park Balboa Park – Located at Grape Street and Granada Ave. This 5 acre UNFENCED area is open to dogs off leash Monday through Friday 7:30am – 9:00pm and Sat/Sun from 9:00am – 9:00pm Holidays 9:00am – 9:00pm.

Nate’s Point Balboa Park – Balboa Drive at El Prado southside of Cabrillo Bridge this grassy lawn is open 24 hours.

Morley Field Balboa Park – Northwest of tennis courts.

Capehart Park Pacific Beach – Located on Soledad Mountain Road and Felspar Street . This 1 acre park offers a yard for small dogs as well a large dog yard. This park is open 24 hours.NO SHADE BUT PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.

Cadman Community Park Clairemont – Located at 4280 Avati Drive. This UNFENCED park will have rules/regulations posted for it’s off leash dog use. (During the school year daily from 7:30am – 10:00am and 4:30pm – 7:00pm / Summer Vacation Daily from 7:00am – 9:30am and 5:00pm – 7:30pm. THERE ARE NO LEASH FREE HOURS ON JULY 4TH AND SATURDAYS FROM MARCH 1 ST TO JUNE 15TH.

Doyle Community Park UTC – Located at 8175 Regents Road . This park offers a small dog yard as well as a large dog yard and is open 24hours however it is not lighted.

Dusty Rhodes Park Pt Loma – Located on Sunset Cliffs Blvd between Nimitz and West Point Loma Blvd. This 1 acre park is a single yard for all dogs. SOME SHADE AND NO WATER AVAILABLE.

Maddox Neighborhood Park – Located at 7815 Flanders Street. This .65 acre park offers a single yard area with a walkway and drinking fountain.

Wells Park El Cajon – Located in the southwest part of Wells park at 1153 E. Madison Ave and is open daily from 7:00am – 9:00pm and is lighted in the evenings. PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AVAILABLE.